On to Esfahan for the next stage of our trip. More mosques, all beautiful, but after a while it's like travelling in Europe, and more churches. Esfahan seems very commercial, and its people much more brash than we had encountered in Tehran or Kashan. Some interesting things though- a contemporary Zoroastrian fire temple in which a fire is kept continuously lit (these days by mains gas!) but still ceremoniously "tended" five times a day (same number as the Muslim prayers). Apparently the Magi in the bible were Zoroastrians, as were the three wise men bringing gifts on Christmas Day. We also explored the crumbling old Zoroastrian fire temple and associated structures set on the peak of the hill that dominates the plain. Joseph had a wonderful time climbing over crumbling walls and through passages. Esfahan also has remnant Jewish and Armenian Christian populations that are generally tolerated but there is probably a soft discrimination. The Iranian constitution guarantees a few parliamentary seats for the 'recognised' minorities of Jews, Armenian Christians and Zoroastrians. Despite the obvious sectarian divides, there is still a very strong sense of Persian unity amongst all these groups. Still, one would not want to be a gay Baha'i, no matter how Persian.
Another site was surprisingly interesting. Old pigeon towers are sprinkled around the city. The one we visited stands about 30 metres in height with a diameter of 10 metres or so. The roofed hollow core is lined with individual roosting sites set into the mud brick for many thousands of pigeons. The caretaker unlocked and let us in to explore the structure including the climb on the nerve-testing stairs to the top. The purpose was to harvest the guano that accumulated on the base and use this as a prized fertiliser on the many fruit orchards that surrounded the city. No shit!
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